ISO 17693:2004

Overview

ISO 17693:2004 is an international standard developed by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) that specifies a test method for assessing the resistance to damage on lasting of footwear uppers. This standard applies to uppers or complete upper assemblies regardless of the material composition. The primary focus is to determine the lastability-or the ability of upper materials to withstand deformation during the lasting process without damage-thereby evaluating their suitability for end use in footwear manufacturing.

This test method is essential for quality control, material selection, and product development within the footwear industry, ensuring that shoe uppers can endure mechanical stresses involved in lasting, where the upper is shaped over a last to form the final shoe structure.

Key Topics

• Lastability Testing: The process involves clamping a circular test specimen by its edge and distending it by pressing a spherical plunger through the sample until damage occurs. Key measurements are:

  • First damage point-the initial appearance of cracks or permanent physical damage.
  • Grain crack (specific to leathers)-cracking of the leather grain or surface finish.
  • Bursting point-full rupture of the material if needed.

• Test Apparatus:

  • Clamping device holding a 25 mm diameter circular specimen securely.
  • A moveable plunger with a 6.25 mm diameter spherical ball.
  • Controlled plunger displacement at 0.20 mm/s ± 0.05 mm/s.
  • Sensors to accurately monitor force and distension during testing.

• Material Scope:

  • Leather, synthetic, coated fabrics, laminates, and other materials used in making footwear uppers.
  • Testing includes complete upper assemblies (including linings, adhesives, reinforcements) but excludes toe puffs and stiffeners.

• Sampling and Conditioning:

  • Specimens must be taken from uniform, seam-free areas not under lasting strain.
  • Conditioning according to ISO standard atmospheres (EN 12222) before testing to ensure consistent moisture and temperature.

• Result Expression and Reporting:

  • Results are reported as average distension and force at damage points.
  • Detailed reporting includes shoe style, material description, test conditions, and any deviations.

Applications

ISO 17693:2004 serves multiple practical functions in the footwear sector:

• Quality Assurance:
  Ensures components meet durability requirements before assembly, reducing defects related to upper material failure during manufacturing.

• Material Selection:
  Helps manufacturers choose suitable materials with adequate resistance to stretching and damage under lasting forces, improving overall product performance.

• Product Development:
  Guides innovation in upper material technology by providing standardized assessment criteria for testing new fabrics, leather finishes, or laminates.

• Compliance and Benchmarking:
  Provides a reference method accepted internationally, supporting conformity to industry regulations and facilitating benchmarking against competitors or historical data.

• Supplier Evaluation:
  Enables footwear companies to verify supplier claims about upper materials’ mechanical properties, reducing risks in procurement.

Related Standards

• EN 12222: Specifies standard atmospheres for conditioning and testing footwear and components, ensuring environmental consistency for material testing.
• prEN ISO 2418: Addresses sampling methods for leather testing, used in conjunction for accurate specimen preparation.
• Other ISO/TC 216 Footwear Standards: Standards related to footwear materials, construction methods, and performance testing that complement ISO 17693 for comprehensive quality control in manufacturing.

Keywords

Footwear testing, upper materials, lastability, resistance to damage on lasting, ISO 17693, shoe upper durability, leather testing, synthetic shoe materials, lasting process, footwear quality control, material performance, test method for footwear, footwear standards.