ISO 22195-3:2023

Overview

ISO 22195-3:2023 specifies a standardized method for the determination of key index ingredients in coloured textiles dyed with myrobalan. Myrobalan is a natural colorant derived from fruits of the Terminalia genus commonly used in traditional textile dyeing, especially across South and Southeast Asia. This ISO standard provides a reproducible, laboratory-based procedure for identifying whether myrobalan has been used as a dye by detecting the presence of its characteristic ingredient, chebulagic acid, in textile samples. Widely applicable to quality control, authenticity verification, and research in textile manufacturing and conservation, the method outlined in ISO 22195-3:2023 enhances both the reliability and traceability of dye source identification.

Key Topics

• Natural Colorants in Textiles: Focuses on the analytical identification of organic dye sources, emphasizing the importance of verifying natural colorants in heritage and commercial textiles.
• Index Ingredient - Chebulagic Acid: The method centers on detecting chebulagic acid, a principal tannin compound found in myrobalan, as an indicator of its use as a textile dye.
• High Performance Liquid Chromatography (HPLC-MS): Employs HPLC coupled with mass spectroscopy for accurate separation, detection, and quantification of chemical markers in dyed fabrics.
• Standardized Test Procedures: Stepwise guidance for specimen preparation, reagent standards, extraction protocols, and result calculation ensures consistent, repeatable outcomes across laboratories.
• Reporting and Documentation: Specifies documentation requirements for reporting test results, including identification, analytical conditions, and deviations.

Applications

ISO 22195-3:2023 delivers significant practical value for multiple stakeholders involved in textiles:

• Textile Manufacturers: Supports quality assurance and transparency in supply chains, particularly for textiles marketed as naturally dyed or eco-friendly.
• Heritage and Museum Conservation: Facilitates scientific verification of historical or ethnographic textiles, enabling better conservation practices and accurate artifact curation.
• Regulatory and Certification Bodies: Acts as a reference for verifying compliance with eco-labeling, authenticity, and product origin claims.
• Research and Development: Provides a reliable laboratory method for scientists investigating the composition of natural dyes or innovating in sustainable textile processing.
• Forensic Analysis: Useful in investigating textile fraud or adulteration where the true origin of colorants must be confirmed.

Related Standards

For comprehensive textile analysis and laboratory testing, the following ISO standards complement ISO 22195-3:2023:

• ISO 22195-1: General determination of index ingredients from coloured textiles.
• ISO 22195-2: Test method for madder, another natural colorant in textiles.
• ISO 3696: Specification for water quality used in analytical laboratory procedures.
• ISO/IEC 17025: General requirements for the competence of testing and calibration laboratories.

These related standards ensure harmonized approaches for identification and analysis of natural dye sources, promoting global consistency and recognition in the testing of coloured textiles.

Keywords: ISO 22195-3:2023, myrobalan, natural colorant, chebulagic acid, coloured textile, textile testing, HPLC-MS, dye identification, textile authenticity, standard test method, textile analysis, natural dye verification