ISO 9354:1989

Overview

ISO 9354:1989, "Textiles - Weaves - Coding system and examples," defines a systematic numerical coding system for basic weaves and simple derivatives. Published by ISO/TC 38 (Textiles) in 1989, the standard prescribes a four-element code for concise, unambiguous notation of weave structures (plain, twill, satin/sateen). It refers to ISO 3572 for weave definitions and uses examples to illustrate common weaves and their encoded forms.

Key topics and technical requirements

• Four-element code structure: The code is made up of four two-digit elements separated by hyphens and spaces where needed:
  • First element (two digits): Kind of weave and starting interlacing (plain, twill, satin/sateen; indicates whether the first (bottom-left) square shows warp up or warp down).
  • Second element (at least two two-digit numbers): Sequence of interlacing of a warp thread with weft threads; numbers indicate warp-up/warp-down runs and their repeat until a complete interlacing repeat is reached. The sum of these numbers equals the number of weft threads in the full repeat.
  • Third element (one or more two-digit numbers): Warp thread grouping - counts of consecutive warp yarns that share the same interlacing sequence.
  • Fourth element (one or more two-digit numbers): Step (move) number. For plain weave and derivatives this is 00 (no step). For twills and satins, step numbers indicate the offset steps shown in the weave diagrams.
• Notation rules: Elements are numeric, two-digit, and separated by hyphens; multiple numbers within an element are space-separated. The standard includes diagrams and tables showing coded examples for plain weaves, twills, satins/sateens.
• Examples provided: The standard gives practical examples (e.g., a 5-end warp satin, step 2, coded as 30-04 01-01-02) and multiple tabled codes for common weave constructions.

Applications and users

ISO 9354 is useful wherever a compact, standardized description of a weave is needed:

• Textile manufacturers and mill engineers for specification, production documentation, and quality control.
• Weave designers and technologists for pattern exchange and recipe generation.
• CAD/CAM and weaving software developers for machine programming and interoperability.
• Standards bodies, testing laboratories, and procurement teams for unambiguous technical documentation and product comparison.

Keywords: ISO 9354, weave coding, textiles, weave notation, warp, weft, twill, satin, plain weave.

Related standards

• ISO 3572:1976 - normative reference for definitions of general terms and basic weaves.