ASTM D3655-22

Overview

ASTM D3655-22: Standard Performance Specification for Men's and Women's Sliver Knitted Overcoat and Jacket Fabrics establishes performance expectations for sliver knitted fabrics intended for use in overcoats and jackets. Published by ASTM International, this standard details requirements for a broad range of textile fibers and blends, focusing on durability, colorfastness, dimensional stability, and flammability. Adherence to this standard helps manufacturers, suppliers, and purchasers ensure the quality and consistency of outerwear fabrics.

Key Topics

• Scope and Applicability

  • Covers sliver knitted fabrics for men's and women's overcoats and jackets regardless of fiber composition
  • Not applicable to knitted fabrics used as interlinings
  • Requirements provided for both lengthwise and widthwise fabric directions

• Performance Criteria

  • Bursting Strength: Minimum performance defined for resistance to rupture (70 lbf/311 N), tested via recognized ASTM methods
  • Dimensional Change: Maximum allowable shrinkage after laundering (3%) and dry cleaning (2%) to ensure fit retention
  • Colorfastness:
    • Tested against multiple agents: laundering, dry cleaning, water, perspiration, light, burnt gas fumes, and bleaches (chlorine and non-chlorine)
    • Color change and staining assessed using AATCC gray scales and chromatic transference scales
    • Special notes address challenges with blends such as polyester/spandex for certain colorfastness evaluations

• Flexibility and Modification

  • Buyers and sellers may modify the specification by mutual agreement to meet specific fashion or performance objectives
  • In the absence of specific agreements, requirements serve as a guideline

• Flammability

  • Fabrics must comply with flammability standards specified by federal regulations (16 CFR Part 1610 or above as agreed)

• Referenced Test Methods

  • Incorporates key standards from ASTM (e.g., D3786, D3787, D2724) and AATCC (e.g., TM8, TM61, TM107, TM132) for consistent and validated testing procedures

Applications

ASTM D3655-22 is essential for businesses involved in the production, supply, or purchasing of outerwear fabrics, particularly:

• Textile Manufacturers:

  • Use the standard as a benchmark for quality assurance in sliver knitted fabric production
  • Design testing and inspection protocols to meet or exceed the outlined requirements

• Apparel Brands and Retailers:

  • Specify the standard in material sourcing contracts to ensure reliable product quality and performance
  • Utilize as a tool for product claims around durability, colorfastness, and maintenance characteristics

• Quality Assurance and Testing Laboratories:

  • Reference the standard to select and execute appropriate test methods for fabric certification or troubleshooting
  • Guide the evaluation of new materials, blends, or finishes for compliance

• Purchasers and End-Users:

  • Consult the document to make informed decisions about overcoat and jacket fabric selections based on desired durability, care requirements, and safety features

Related Standards

For comprehensive textile quality management and testing, ASTM D3655-22 is often used in conjunction with:

• ASTM D123: Terminology Relating to Textiles
• ASTM D2724: Bond Strength of Bonded, Fused, and Laminated Apparel Fabrics
• ASTM D3786/D3787: Bursting Strength of Textile Fabrics
• AATCC Test Methods: Including TM8 (Crocking), TM61 (Laundering), TM107 (Water), TM132 (Drycleaning), TM15 (Perspiration), TM16 (Lightfastness), TM23 (Burnt Gas Fumes), TM135 (Laundry Shrinkage)

Adhering to ASTM D3655-22 ensures that men's and women's sliver knitted overcoat and jacket fabrics deliver consistent quality, durability, and safety, meeting both regulatory and market expectations for textile performance.