Overview
ISO 21084:2019 specifies a laboratory method for the determination of extractable alkylphenols (AP) in textiles and textile products without a derivatization step. The method covers sample preparation, extraction, chromatographic analysis (GC-MS, LC‑MS or LC‑FLD), calibration and calculation of results. ISO 21084:2019 is intended for laboratories analyzing nonylphenols and octylphenols in fabrics using methanol extraction and instrumental detection.
Key topics and requirements
- Scope: Quantification of extractable APs (octylphenols and nonylphenols) from textile specimens.
- Sample preparation: Cut specimen into ~5 mm × 5 mm pieces, weigh (typically 1 g), and extract with methanol.
- Extraction: Ultrasonic bath at 70 ± 5 °C for 60 minutes; filter extracts (0.45 µm or less) prior to analysis. Final extract volume must be recorded for calculations.
- Analytical methods: Qualitative and quantitative analysis by GC‑MS/MS, LC‑MS/MS, or LC‑FLD. Positive GC‑MS results should be confirmed by LC techniques to avoid false positives (e.g., decomposition artifacts).
- Reagents and apparatus: Uses HPLC‑grade methanol, acetonitrile, water and standard reference substances (4‑n‑octylphenol, 4‑tert‑octylphenol, 4‑n‑nonylphenol, 4‑nonylphenol). Chromatographic columns and detector settings are provided in Annex A and B as examples.
- Calibration and calculation: External calibration is used; calibration curves must meet stringent linearity (correlation coefficient > 0.995 or R > 0.990). Concentrations in sample extracts are converted to mg/kg of specimen per the standard’s formulas.
- Reporting: Test reports must reference ISO 21084:2019, list methods used, provide individual AP results, and note deviations or influencing circumstances.
- Performance data: Annex C provides interlaboratory reproducibility and repeatability statistics from validation studies.
Applications and users
ISO 21084:2019 is relevant for:
- Textile testing laboratories performing routine chemical screening for alkylphenols.
- Product safety and quality control teams in textile manufacturing.
- Chemical compliance and verification groups assessing extractable AP content before market release.
- Research and environmental labs studying extractable endocrine‑active chemicals in fibers and finished textile products.
Practical benefits include a standardized extraction workflow (no derivatization), validated chromatographic options (GC‑MS/MS, LC‑MS/MS, LC‑FLD), and guidance for robust calibration and reporting.
Related information
- Prepared by ISO/TC 38 (Textiles).
- Annex A: example GC‑MS/MS conditions; Annex B: LC‑MS/MS and LC‑FLD conditions; Annex C: method reliability data.
Keywords: ISO 21084:2019, alkylphenols, AP, textiles, nonylphenol, octylphenol, GC‑MS, LC‑MS, LC‑FLD, ultrasonic extraction, methanol extraction, calibration.