ISO 22195-8:2024

Overview

ISO 22195-8:2024 establishes a laboratory test method for identifying the index ingredient of Hibiscus in coloured textiles. The standard specifies sample preparation, extraction, instrumental analysis and calculation steps to detect delphinidin 3-sambubioside - an anthocyanin marker commonly associated with Hibiscus flower extracts. The method is primarily intended as a screening/identification technique using chromatographic and mass-spectrometric analysis of ethanol/aqueous extracts.

Keywords: ISO 22195-8:2024, textiles, Hibiscus, delphinidin 3-sambubioside, natural colourant, LC-MS, HPLC-DAD, index ingredient, extraction.

Key Topics and Requirements

• Scope: Determination of an index ingredient from coloured textile using aqueous/ethanolic extracts from Hibiscus flowers.
• Principle: Detect characteristic natural-colourant constituents (anthocyanins) remaining in dyed fabrics by chromatography and mass spectrometry.
• Reagents: HPLC-grade solvents (ethanol, acetonitrile), formic acid (0.1–30 % as specified), reference standard delphinidin 3-sambubioside chloride, and ISO 3696-grade water.
• Apparatus: analytical balance (0.001 g), ultrasonic bath (30 ± 2 °C), 50 ml borosilicate container, 0.2 μm membrane filter, LC–MS (ESI) and optional HPLC–DAD.
• Sample preparation: Cut ~1 g specimen, extract with 10 ml ethanol in ultrasonic bath for 20 ± 1 min, cool and filter; note any dilution factor.
• Calibration and quantification: Prepare calibration standards (typical range 1–100 mg/L with at least five points); calibration curve should meet high linearity (correlation coefficient R > 0.990; recommended R > 0.995).
• Calculation: Convert measured concentration in extract to μg/g of fabric using specimen mass, extraction volume and dilution factor.
• Reporting: Include reference to ISO 22195-8:2024, specimen ID, detection result, chromatographic conditions, any deviations and date.

Applications and Users

• Textile testing laboratories conducting natural dye identification and authenticity screening.
• Quality control teams in textile production verifying use of natural Hibiscus dyes.
• Conservation scientists and cultural heritage professionals assessing historical textiles.
• Forensic analysts and regulators investigating dye origin or compliance.
• R&D groups developing analytical protocols for natural colourant profiling.

Note: Detection of delphinidin 3-sambubioside is indicative of Hibiscus-derived colourant but is not exclusive proof that Hibiscus alone was used; results should be interpreted alongside other evidence.

Related Standards

• ISO 22195 series (other parts on index ingredient determination for different natural colourants)
• ISO 3696 - Water for analytical laboratory use (referenced for reagent water quality)

This standard supports reliable, reproducible identification of Hibiscus-derived anthocyanins in textiles using LC–MS/HPLC-DAD workflows and is useful for laboratories focused on dye provenance, authenticity and quality control.